By myself. And visiting four cities in just over a week's time. Despite not having any idea how far apart these cities are, or how to navigate the trains in Europe. Or how to speak the language. And being terrible at math, which makes the whole currency conversion thing just a nightmare.
Did I mention? By myself? I'm doing this all by myself?
 |
| Photo by Flickr user Moyan_Brenn |
Oh dear.
I'm nervous! Excited, yes, but also nervous! I don't speak a word of Italian (unless you count espresso and pizza), and as a general rule I don't do terribly well with maps. Also, apparently it's incredible difficult to find nontouristy cafes in any of the four places I'll be focusing my time (Venice! Florence! Rome! Naples!).
Did I also mention, this is a coffee pilgrimage? This is a coffee pilgrimage. I'm going to Italy specifically to while away the hours in cafes, elbow to elbow with old men wearing tweed drinking espresso at standing bars, maybe slugging back a snappy glass of Sambuca every once in a while, taking it all in.
Which is to say: I need your help, friends and readers.
Have you been to any of these cities before, and can you recommend cafes to me? Can you also tell me where I might find exceptional gelato, delicious fresh pasta, vibrant vegetarian food, Italian-Jewish cuisine, and other locations only natives would visit?
Also also, if there are any expats-in-Italy who like to run, eat, drink coffee, or hang out with clueless visiting Americans: I am currently accepting offers of guiding, conversation, and eating on my dime. Interested? E-mail me!
The best Italy tip I never got until it was too late was this: if you sit down in a cafe to have your coffee you'll be charged the earth for it, but if you stand to drink it the price is regulated by law (it was 1 euro for an espresso last time I was there).
ReplyDeleteI can help...if you'll pack me in your suitcase. :) I can't wait to hear about it!
ReplyDeleteI am so sorry you won't be passing through Milan...maybe next time?
ReplyDeleteAlthough I am sure readers who live in those places can give you better advice, I will send you an email with a couple of ideas. In the meantime, since you are going for the coffee/café experience in Italy, here are a couple of suggested reads, one written by Ms. Adventures in Italy and one by yours truly:
http://nutsaboutfooditaly.blogspot.com/2010/11/italians-do-it-better.html
http://www.msadventuresinitaly.com/blog/2007/07/11/how-to-order-an-italian-coffee-in-italy/
I am having trouble sending an email so I will list a couple of things here.
ReplyDeletePiperno is a famous Italian-Jewish restaurant in Rome: good but not cheap.
Gelaterie in Rome: I am pretty sure David Lebovitz wrote a post on them but here are a few suggestions I was given: Giolitti, Ciampini, Grom (duh!), Palazzo del Freddo
I grew up in Venice but I am sure a lot has changed since then. I you don't get any advice, let me know and I will wrack my brain
oh fun! can i just tell you that i've always always always wanted to travel by myself. something about the anonymity of it all.
ReplyDeletei will email you some suggestions.
How wonderful! I was there five years ago—maybe exactly five years ago to the day, since I visited in late January. Can't wait to get your report! I had a lovely meal at Oggi al Timon in Venice, but I'm not sure if it's even around anymore, or what it's vegetarian offerings were.
ReplyDeleteFor restaurants in Florence check out the Tuscan food blog by Emiko Davies (particularly these posts):
ReplyDeletehttp://www.emikodavies.com/blog/a-taste-of-florence/
http://www.emikodavies.com/blog/top-25-tuscan-food-finds/
For restaurants in Rome, I think Katie Parla is the go-to Rome food blog: http://www.parlafood.com/